I still remember the wind on the crater rim of Hallasan — cold even in late spring, and Baengnokdam lake glittering blue-green far below in the volcanic crater. It was the hardest single day of my Jeju trip, and the one I still talk about first.
Yes, you can hike to the top of Hallasan, the 1,947-meter volcano at the center of Jeju Island and the highest mountain in South Korea. But you cannot just show up. The summit section requires a free advance reservation on one of two trails: Seongpanak (9.6 km one way, the gentler route) or Gwaneumsa (8.7 km one way, steeper and more dramatic). Booking opens monthly, daily quotas sell out fast in autumn and winter, and strict cutoffs (12:30 entry close in summer, 11:30 in winter) mean you should start around 5–6 AM. This guide compares the trails, explains the permit system, and lists exactly what to carry.
Photo: Sadopaul, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Which trail should you choose: Seongpanak or Gwaneumsa?
First-time summit hikers should choose Seongpanak. It is longer (9.6 km one way) but spreads its roughly 1,200 meters of elevation gain over a steadier gradient, with boardwalks and long forested stretches that make the effort manageable. Gwaneumsa climbs about 1,330 meters in 8.7 km — shorter on paper, but packed with stairs and rocky sections that hit knees and lungs harder.
The experience differs too. Seongpanak runs through dense volcanic forest for most of its length, opening up only near the summit. Gwaneumsa feels wilder, with cliff views and volcanic rock formations — many hikers call it the more scenic route. Fit hikers sometimes ascend Seongpanak and descend Gwaneumsa to sample both, but that requires transport between two different trailheads, so confirm your logistics first.
Photo: Basile Morin, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
| Trail | One way | Elevation gain | Typical ascent | Difficulty | Daily quota | Key checkpoint |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Seongpanak | 9.6 km | ~1,200 m | 4–5 hours | Moderate–hard | 1,000 hikers | Azalea Field Shelter, pass by cutoff |
| Gwaneumsa | 8.7 km | ~1,330 m | ~5 hours | Hard | 500 hikers | Samgakbong Shelter, pass by cutoff |
Do you need a permit, and how do you book one?
You need a reservation for the summit section — Baengnokdam and the ridges above the mid-trail checkpoints — and you cannot get one on the spot. Rangers check permits at the trailhead and checkpoints, and anyone without a booking is turned back, even hours into the hike.
Booking is free, online, through the official Hallasan National Park reservation site (visithalla.jeju.go.kr), which has an English toggle. Slots for each month open on the 1st of the previous month; autumn and winter weekend dates fill within days, so book as soon as your plans are fixed. On the day, scan your booking QR code at the trailhead and carry ID — foreign hikers should have their passport. Since May 2025, the lower sections of both trails (up to the mid-trail shelters) no longer require a reservation, but they do not reach the summit, and the summit section always does.
Photo: Joshua0608, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
What time do you need to start?
Aim to be walking between 5:00 and 6:00 AM. Both summit trailheads open at 5:00, and the entry cutoff is strict: 12:30 from April to September, 11:30 from October to March. You must also leave the summit by 14:30 in summer and 13:30 in winter. Miss any cutoff and rangers turn you around — no exceptions for a valid reservation.
What should you bring on the hike?
Bring everything for a full mountain day: no shops and no reliable water supply on the trail. Carry at least 1.5–2 liters of water and snacks for 8–10 hours of walking — energy bars, chocolate, fruit, anything you can eat on the move. Wear layers: even on a warm day at the base, the summit is windy and noticeably colder. Proper hiking shoes or sturdy trail shoes with grip are essential; parts of both trails are bare rock and wooden steps that get slippery when wet.
Add a rain shell (Jeju weather changes fast on the mountain), a headlamp in case of a late descent, and hiking poles if your knees complain downhill. In winter, crampons are mandatory — rangers enforce this — along with warm gloves and a beanie.
Photo: Sadopaul, CC BY 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Can you hike Hallasan in winter?
Yes, and the snow-covered crater is extraordinary, but winter is the most serious season on the mountain. Deep snow, ice, and subzero wind chill make crampons and full winter gear non-negotiable, and cutoffs tighten: entry closes at 11:30, and you must leave the summit by 13:30. Check the park's operating notices the day before — trails can close in heavy snow or high winds.
If the summit feels like too much for your schedule or fitness, the lower Yeongsil and Eorimok trails offer a strong taste of Hallasan in a half-day hike — highland forest, cliffs, and volcanic scenery, with no reservation needed. They do not reach Baengnokdam, so treat them as a backup plan, not a shortcut.
Photo: Jeju Contents Agency (제주콘텐츠진흥원), KOGL Type 1, via Wikimedia Commons
How do you get to the trailheads?
Hallasan sits in the center of the island, so both summit trailheads are within about half an hour of Jeju City by road — Seongpanak on the east side, Gwaneumsa to the northwest. Public buses serve the trail areas, but first buses do not arrive early enough for a comfortable 5 AM summit start, so most hikers arrange a taxi for the morning and return by prearranged transport after the descent. From Seogwipo in the south, allow extra travel time to reach Seongpanak.
FAQ
Can I hike Hallasan without a reservation?
You can hike the lower sections of the Seongpanak and Gwaneumsa trails, and the Yeongsil and Eorimok trails, with no booking. But the summit section — Baengnokdam crater and the final ridge — is closed to anyone without a reservation, and rangers turn you back at the checkpoint. If the summit matters to you, book first.
How hard is the summit hike, honestly?
Technically it is straightforward — well-built trail, boardwalks, stairs, clear signage throughout. Physically it is demanding: 1,200-plus meters of climbing, hours of stairs, hard cutoff times. Most hikers take 4–5 hours up and 3–5 hours down. If you hike regularly and start early, it is very achievable.
Can I go up one trail and down the other?
This is possible and popular — ascend the gentler Seongpanak, descend the more scenic Gwaneumsa, or vice versa. The catch is logistics: the trailheads are on different sides of the mountain, so you need transport between them. Check the park's current trail notices first, because sections occasionally close for maintenance.
What happens if the weather turns bad mid-hike?
Hallasan's weather changes quickly — fog, rain, and high wind are all common, so bring a rain shell and warm layers regardless of the forecast. If conditions are dangerous the park closes the trails; treat a closed gate as final.
Do I really need crampons in winter?
Yes. From late autumn through early spring, snow and ice cover the upper trails, and rangers require crampons — slip-on ice cleats work. Gloves, a hat, and windproof layers matter just as much, because the summit wind cuts through anything thin.
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