Haeundae gets the crowds. Head northeast, and Busan's coast slows down into a surf beach, small fishing ports, and a temple perched over the waves.
Gijang and Songjeong form the calmer northeastern stretch of Busan's coast. Songjeong Beach is the surf beach Busan is known for — a 1.2-kilometer sandy cove with gentle, beginner-friendly waves — while Gijang holds Haedong Yonggungsa, a Buddhist temple set right on the rocky shoreline, plus quiet fishing ports and family beaches like Ilgwang. Both are easy day trips from Haeundae or central Busan by the Donghae commuter line and city buses, and suit anyone who found Haeundae too busy.
Where exactly are Gijang and Songjeong?
Songjeong Beach sits in Haeundae-gu, just northeast of Haeundae Beach and over the low Dalmaji Hill. Gijang (Gijang-gun) is the county beyond it — Busan's northeastern edge, where the city starts to feel like coastline and fishing towns. The Donghae Line, the light-blue commuter rail, strings them together: it runs from Bujeon Station (near Seomyeon) through the Haeundae area to Songjeong, Osiria, Ilgwang, and Gijang. The whole stretch works as one coastal day, moving from beach to temple to fishing port without a car.
How do you get to Songjeong and Gijang from central Busan?
Take the Donghae Line from Bujeon Station — a short walk from the Seomyeon transit area — and get off at Songjeong Station for the beach, about a 10-minute walk away. Stay on the train for Osiria or Ilgwang to reach the Gijang coast. From Haeundae Station, the ride to Songjeong takes about 15 minutes, and city buses (100, 100-1, 139, 142, 181) also run between Haeundae and Songjeong.
For Haedong Yonggungsa, the simplest route is Bus 181 from Haeundae Station (Exit 7): about 35 minutes, roughly every 15 to 20 minutes, about 1,550 won with a transit card, stopping near the temple entrance. Alternatively, ride the Donghae Line to Osiria Station and switch to Bus 139 or a short taxi. From Seomyeon or Nampo, go to Haeundae by metro first and allow 60 to 75 minutes door to door. A taxi from Haeundae takes around 20 minutes in normal traffic.
What is Songjeong Beach like?
Songjeong is a sheltered, 1.2-kilometer crescent of sand with shallow water and a gentle slope — calm enough for families, with just enough wave for surfing. When I stood on Songjeong's sand on an October morning, the lineup was already full: longboarders trading slow waves while the beach itself stayed nearly empty. Surfers gather here year-round, and the waves are strongest in autumn and winter, which is why surf schools line the road behind the beach renting boards and running lessons for first-timers.
Photo: Andrewssi2, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
At the north end, Jukdo Park sits on a pine-covered point with the Songiljeong pavilion and the red-and-white harbor lighthouses — a short walk and a good photo stop. The mood is the opposite of Haeundae: low-rise streets, surf shops, and cafes instead of towers and crowds. Swimming is supervised in summer, and the water stays shallow far out, which is why local families come here too.
What should you know before visiting Haedong Yonggungsa Temple?
Haedong Yonggungsa is one of the few Buddhist temples in Korea built on the seaside rather than in the mountains. The temple claims 14th-century origins, but historians dispute that account — most of what you see today was built in the 20th century, including the main hall from 1970. It sits at 86 Yonggung-gil in Gijang, admission is free, and it is open daily from 04:30 to 19:20.
Photo: Wikivoyage contributor, CC BY-SA, via Wikimedia Commons
The approach is part of the experience: twelve zodiac statues line the path, then a stone bridge and a long flight of stone steps lead down to the water's edge, with the East Sea crashing against the rocks. Wear shoes with grip — the steps are uneven and can be slippery. This is an active place of worship, so keep your voice low near the prayer halls. Mornings are the sweet spot: the temple faces east, sunrise here is famous, and arriving before 10 means far fewer crowds. The temple parking lot charges a fee if you drive.
What else is worth seeing on this stretch of coast?
Between Haeundae and Songjeong sits Cheongsapo, a small fishing village with waterfront cafes and the Daritdol Observatory — a 72.5-meter walkway over the sea with a glass floor at the end. Take Metro Line 2 to Jangsan Station, transfer to the local bus, and walk about 8 minutes from the stop. It pairs naturally with a Songjeong morning.
Further into Gijang, Ilgwang Beach is the quiet one: a calm, shallow, horseshoe-shaped bay local families prefer over the bigger beaches. Take the Donghae Line to Ilgwang Station, Exit 1, and walk about 5 minutes. Gijang is serious about seafood — famous for spring anchovies, with the working ports and the traditional market selling the day's catch. Eat along the harbor roads where the fishing boats are parked.
How should you plan the day?
The simplest version: temple in the morning, beach in the afternoon — the two sit a short ride apart on the Donghae Line and local buses. Here is how the stops compare:
| Stop | What it is | Plan on |
|---|---|---|
| Songjeong Beach | Surf beach, 1.2 km of shallow sand | Half a day |
| Cheongsapo | Fishing village, glass-floor observatory | 1 to 2 hours |
| Haedong Yonggungsa | Seaside Buddhist temple | 1.5 to 2 hours |
| Ilgwang Beach | Calm family beach in Gijang | Half a day |
This side of Busan suits surfers and beginners, families who want calmer water, temple visitors, and photographers chasing sunrise and sea cliffs. It is not the side for nightlife or shopping — stay in Haeundae or Seomyeon for that and come out here for the day. One well-planned day covers the highlights without rushing.
Frequently asked questions
Is Songjeong Beach good for beginner surfers?
Yes. The waves are gentle and consistent, the water is shallow, and the schools behind the beach rent boards and run lessons for first-timers. Autumn and winter bring the best waves; summer is calmer and better for swimming.
Can you visit Haedong Yonggungsa and Songjeong Beach in one day?
Yes. Go to the temple first thing — it opens at 04:30 and the early hours have the fewest crowds — then head to Songjeong for the afternoon. The transfer between them takes well under an hour.
Is there an entrance fee at Haedong Yonggungsa Temple?
No. Admission to the temple is free. If you arrive by car, the temple parking lot charges a fee; arriving by bus or train avoids that entirely.
How is Songjeong different from Haeundae?
Songjeong is smaller, calmer, and local — a surf town with low-rise streets instead of Haeundae's high-rise resort strip. Haeundae has the scale, the events, and the nightlife; Songjeong has the waves, the space, and a slower pace. Many visitors enjoy both, using Haeundae as a base and Songjeong as a day trip.
What should you eat around Gijang?
Gijang is known for seafood, especially spring anchovies, plus the daily catch at the traditional market and harbor stalls. Head for the working fishing ports, where small restaurants serve what the boats brought in that morning.
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